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Q: How often should I change my filter?

 

A: Filters should be checked every 30 days. The filter should not be left in place any longer than 90 days, regardless of the amount of residue found, unless specifically rated for longer periods and are clean.

 

Q: What type of filter should I use?

 

A: Standard furnace filters work well to keep your system and its ductwork clean, but they don’t really improve indoor air quality. To do that you need a media filter. The media filter rests between the main return duct and the blower cabinet and will improve dust and particle removal by seven times that of a standard furnace filter. However, upgrading to a pleated media filter will remove everything from insecticide dust to airborne viruses from the filtered air.

 

A media filter can have a life exceeding two years, and its only drawback is that its tight fiber weave can cause your furnace to have to work harder to blow air through the house. Always choose a filter that matches your blower’s capacity.

 

Q: Should I turn my system off when I go to work / on vacation to save energy / money?

 

A: No. Your system will have to work longer and harder to achieve (catch up) the temperature you desire when you return. Try setting your system to 80 in the summer, and 68 in the winter when you are away for long periods. Another option is installing a programmable thermostat. With this option you can set several temperatures on different times and days.

 

Q: How long does a unit last in Florida?

 

A: This is a tricky question. Most units are made the same. Some have different paint colors, and some have variable speed motors, and some even have dual compressors (2-stage systems). Ultimately, what will decide the longevity of your system is the contractor that installs it, and its owner. A system must be properly installed to properly run. After installation, the unit must be maintained in order to prolong the life of the unit. You can't keep driving a car without changing its oil can you? Today's units typically last 12-15 years.

 

Q: How often should I have preventative maintenance done?

 

A: Preventative maintenance is recommended to be performed every six months.

Frequently asked questions

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Q: I saw an ad for a maintenance for $19.95 - $49.95. Why is yours more?

 

A: Our company sends a factory trained technician to perform the maintenance -

NOT a sales person. Our personnel are paid hourly, NOT commission based. Our

company is in business to educate the consumer, not only earn but keep your

business, and your satisfaction is GUARANTEED. Our maintenance will take

approximately 1 hour to complete. There are no high pressure or scary sales

tactics.

 

Q: What are the preventive maintenance measures for my ducts?

 

A: Although modern technology has made significant advances in air filters over the past decade, a fractional amount of dust still finds its way past heating and cooling filters and into your home’s ducts. As this dust accumulates throughout your home, it creates the perfect environment for the growth of mold, mites and harmful bacteria. To check your ducts for dust buildup, pull off several supply and return registers and see how much dust has accumulated in the system. If you choose to clean your system, your best option is to contact a professional duct cleaner.

 

Q: Why should I perform preventive maintenance?

 

A: Heating and cooling systems work incredibly hard to perform their functions for your household. The constant stopping, starting and continual operation can wear down a machine quickly and unexpectedly if the proper care and maintenance is delayed. However, by performing preventive maintenance, or servicing your system regularly, you can maximize the lifecycle of your heating or cooling unit and guard against many unexpected failures

 

Preventive maintenance inspections performed on a regular basis can uncover leaks, rust, rot, soot, frayed wires and corroded electrical contacts.

 

Q: Are there any rebates available to apply toward new systems?

 

A: Rebates and tax credits depend heavily on the size (tonnage), brand and SEER. FPL does offer a year round rebate on units 2 - 5 ton that are 14 - 19+ SEER. Certain units are eligible for tax credits, based on certain regulations set forth by governmental agencies. Occasionally, certain manufacturers will advertise "$XXXX instant / mail in rebate."

 

Q: Why should I purchase a new heating or air conditioning system?

 

A: Efficiency and cost savings. We realize that purchasing a heating or air conditioning system is no small matter. However, if your existing system is old, in need of repair, or simply inefficient, purchasing a new unit, one which can be as much as 60% more efficient than a system purchased just 10 years ago, can offer long-term benefits.

Rather than continuing to pay for ongoing maintenance and costly monthly bills, invest in a new system today that will save you money for years to come.

 

Q: How can I find the system that’s right for me?

 

A: Get the facts from an expert. There are many heating and air conditioning systems to choose from today. AATSI can draw on a vast degree of heating and air conditioning knowledge and experience to help you decide on the system that best fits your specific needs. The size and age of your home, as well as the number of rooms, climate, local and regional utility costs, and utility incentive / rebate programs are all factors that will affect the functionality and, therefore, selection of your system.

 

Consumers seeking to replace an existing system often choose a new unit with equal or higher efficiency ratings compared to their previous system. Replacing a unit that is 10- to 15-years-old may reduce electricity costs by 30 - 50%. Contact a us directly to help determine initial cost, warranty protection, service options, maintenance options, operating cost and proper installation.

 

Q: How do I determine the size, or capacity, of my HVAC system?

 

A: Factors affecting the size of your new system include the climate in your region, humidity levels, the number of windows in your dwelling, total square footage of your home, the direction your home faces, the number of heat-producing appliances in your home, the type of insulation you have and the number of people that live in your residence.

 

AATSI can perform the proper calculations to determine the appropriate heating or cooling unit for your home and lifestyle.

 

Q: What goes into installing a new system?

 

A: It’s all about the ductwork. Putting a new system in a home that has not had central air and heat before will require the installation of ductwork, insulation, refrigerant piping, electrical service, wiring, thermostat, condensate piping, flue piping, flue terminations, chimney liner, slabs, filter, driers, registers, grills, drain pans and evaporator coil. Beyond equipment, the most important component installed with a new system, however, is the ductwork. Ductwork is composed of 2 parts: supply and return. Supply duct is attached to the outflow of the new system, delivering air to each zone in a home. The amount of air reaching each zone is determined by the size of supply ductwork connecting it to your system. Your dealer will help you determine the size of all the supply ductwork in your home.

 

The second part of the ductwork, the return duct, attaches to the inlet of the new system and draws air out of the spaces to be heated or cooled. Attached to the return duct is the filter. The filter should be placed as near to the furnace or air handler as possible. Ductwork can be either fiberglass or metal and must be properly sized in order to evenly distribute the proper amount of air to each room.

 

Q: What happens when I replace my old system?

 

A: Start with a detailed inspection. To install the most efficient HVAC system in your household, a detailed inspection should first be performed by your installation contractor. The inspection by your contractor should include, as a minimum, the inspection of your home’s ductwork, insulation, refrigerant piping, electrical service, wiring, thermostat, condensate piping, flue piping, flue terminations, chimney liner, slabs, filter, driers, registers, grills, drain pans and evaporator coil.

 

Q: What can I do to control the humidity levels in my home?

 

A: It’s all about variability. Humidity levels can be reduced by using a variable-speed furnace or air handler as part of your HVAC system. Variable speed units run longer, at lower speeds, allowing air to constantly circulate against the cooling coil and remove more moisture. Variable-speed motors also use less electricity than regular motors, reducing your energy costs.

 

Q: What is R-22?

 

A: R-22 is the common name for hydro-chlorofluorocarbon (HCFC). R-22 has been used as a refrigerant by HVAC manufacturers for over 40 years, but studies in the past decade have shown that HCFCs contain chlorine, an ozone-depleting agent.

 

Q: What is R-410A?

 

A: R-410A is the common name for an emerging hydro-fluorocarbon (HFC) that is being used as a refrigerant in the HVAC industry. R-410A is more environmentally friendly than R-22 and is being seen as the most likely replacement for R-22 by HVAC manufacturers. As of 2010, the use of alternate refrigerant was required in HVAC manufacturing.

 

Q: What does "SEER" mean?

 

A: Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio - it basically means how efficient your unit uses electricity. Think of it as the "MPG" of your AC system - just like your car. Units in production today range from 13 SEER to 25 SEER. Units today are two and a half times more efficient than just 10 years ago. We can save you up to 60% on your cooling cost by simply replacing your AC system.

 

Q: What is Energy Star?

 

A: Energy Star is a program that was created by the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) to help businesses and individuals make energy efficient purchases.

This program places the Energy Star label, a small blue and white logo, on items that meet superior energy efficiency standards. This label provides an easy way for consumers to identify quality, high efficiency products.

 

What to check before placing a service call:

 

1. Thermostat turned to cool or heat and fan in "auto" position

2. All breakers in "on" position

3. Do you participate in FPL On-Call Program? If "yes" - Are there any "red" lights on your box? - If so, FPL has activated "On-Call" feature

4. De-humidistat set to "on"

5. Filter is clean

6. Are other appliances in home functioning properly?

Helpful links

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